Lattice Training Podcast by Lattice Training
Lattice Training
Hosted by Lattice Training - the world's leading climbing coaching and training company - this podcast features discussions and interviews with many of the planet's best climbers and coaches. We delve into the details of what works and what doesn't when it comes to training, performance and recovery. Whether you're just starting out climbing, or a professional athlete, there is an incredible depth of knowledge throughout the episodes! For further support and knowledge please check out Lattice 365, our exclusive membership group.
Categories: Sports & Recreation
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In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson. James recently established ‘Bon Voyage’ (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport.
James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life’ (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Despite that, there has been controversy surrounding the grading in his earlier career.
Although his earlier efforts faced some controversy, with a few of his climbs like The Groove being downgraded after establishment. This criticism, which even included accusations of overgrading for media attention, forced James to re-evaluate the entire grading system.
The experience turned out to be a turning point for James. He spent years rebuilding his confidence and credibility as a climber, making significant ascents in Europe. This included repeating the downgraded ‘The Walk of Life’ and tackling other difficult routes like ‘Tribe’ (E11) and ‘Lexicon’ (E11 7a).
So when James established 'Bon Voyage' in France and felt it was his hardest route yet, he initially hesitated to propose a grade. However, after witnessing other accomplished climbers struggle on the route, James decided to propose the world's first E12 once again, ten months after his initial ascent. This episode dives into James' experience with 'Bon Voyage' and the lessons learned from his past grading controversies, but also the validation James received when none other than Adam Ondra, successfully repeated the route and agreed with the E12 grade.
In this episode, James dives deep into:
Sharing ‘Bon Voyage’ with Adam Ondra
- What makes this route unlike anything else out there
- Adam Ondra’s approach to risk
- What beta Adam Ondra used for this epic route
- Who else is trying ‘Bon Voyage’
- The evolution of trad grades and why did James propose the controversial E12 grade for ‘Bon Voyage’
This episode is a must-listen for any climber interested in the cutting edge of trad climbing, the ever-evolving world of grading, and the unique perspectives of two climbing legends!
Don't miss this captivating episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Previous episodes
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142 - Adam Ondra Repeats The World’s Hardest Trad Route Sat, 16 Mar 2024
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141 - How A Competition Climber Became the FIRST Brit to Free 'The Nose' Sat, 02 Mar 2024
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140 - Pro athlete, Emily Harrington, on climbing, pregnancy and motherhood Sat, 17 Feb 2024
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139 - Climbing Injuries with the GB Olympic Physio Sat, 03 Feb 2024
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138 - Eyes set on America's First V17 & Frustration on Excalibur 9b+ with Will Bosi Sat, 20 Jan 2024
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137 - Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts Sat, 06 Jan 2024
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136 - First Female Ascent of Black Mamba (5.14b/8c): Interviewing Mary Eden Sat, 23 Dec 2023
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135 - Stranger than Fiction (5.14b/8c): Interviewing Lor Sabourin Sat, 09 Dec 2023
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134 - What is in Alex Honnold’s Training Plan? Sat, 18 Nov 2023
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133 - Training The Worlds Strongest Man With Tom Randall & Dan Hipkiss Sat, 28 Oct 2023
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132 - Pete Whittaker on Trad 9a: Crown Royale Sat, 14 Oct 2023
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131 - This or That series...Kilter Board or Moonboard? Sat, 30 Sep 2023
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130 - V17 & The Olympics: Coaching World Class Climbers Sat, 16 Sep 2023
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129 - Ecopointing Explained: A Blueprint for Sustainable Climbing Sat, 19 Aug 2023
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128 - Eric Horst: Training For Aging Climbers Sat, 05 Aug 2023
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127 - Emotional Regulation for Climbing Performance: Allegra Maguire (Part 2) Sat, 22 Jul 2023
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126 - Allegra Maguire Part 1: Growth Mindset Sat, 08 Jul 2023
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125 - This or That? Circuit boards vs Roped Climbing Sat, 24 Jun 2023
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124 - This or That? Endurance Vs Strength Training Sat, 10 Jun 2023
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123 - This or That? Strength Training vs Power Training Sat, 20 May 2023
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122 - This or That? Bouldering with System Boards vs. General Bouldering Sat, 06 May 2023
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121 - Is Flashing on a Replica Still a Flash? A Philosophical Discussion on Climbing Ethics Sat, 22 Apr 2023
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120 - Exclusive Interview: Will Bosi's Epic Burden of Dreams V17 Ascent Sat, 15 Apr 2023
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119 - This or That? Climbing Hot Takes with Anna Hazelnutt Sat, 25 Mar 2023
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118 - Peak Performance for Climbers in Their 40s and Beyond: Insights from Pro Athlete and Coach, Tom Randall Sat, 11 Mar 2023
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117 - The World’s Hardest Trad Route: Interview With James Pearson Sat, 18 Feb 2023
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116 - Climbing Her First 9a: Hazel Findlay on Mental Preparation Sat, 04 Feb 2023
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115 - Climbing Her First 9a: Hazel Findlay Talks Training Sat, 28 Jan 2023
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114 - Aidan Roberts & Will Bosi Talk Replicas, Training and Climbing At The Cutting Edge Sat, 21 Jan 2023
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113 - Diastasis Recti and Postpartum exercises with Joy Black Sat, 14 Jan 2023
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112 - Power and sustainability with Dr Steve Thompson Sat, 07 Jan 2023
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111 - Lower body injuries and rehab with Uzo Ehiogu Sat, 17 Dec 2022
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110 - Hormones and our human potential with Dr Nicky Keay Sat, 10 Dec 2022
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109 - Training Talk & Fear of Falling: Ryan Devlin From The Struggle Climbing Podcast Sat, 26 Nov 2022
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108 - Climbing Psychology with Kevin Roet Sat, 19 Nov 2022
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107 - Eating Disorders, Nutrition and Athletes with Renee McGregor Sat, 12 Nov 2022
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106 - Mindset and Elite Performance with John Kiely Sat, 05 Nov 2022
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105 - Sport Physiology and Menstruation with Stacy Simms Sat, 29 Oct 2022
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104 - Alphane 2nd Ascent, Burden of Dreams & Training Strategies: The Aidan Roberts Interview Fri, 21 Oct 2022
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103 - Bouldering: Top 10 Projecting Strategies for beginners and intermediate climbers Sat, 15 Oct 2022
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102 - Sport Climbing: Top 10 Projecting Strategies for beginners and intermediate Sat, 08 Oct 2022
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101 - Part 2 of the Adam Fiala 5.14a Journey! Sat, 01 Oct 2022
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100 - Improve Your Power Endurance Part 2: Projecting and Redpointing Sat, 24 Sep 2022
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99 - 9a in less than 4 years of climbing: Martina Demmel's story Sat, 17 Sep 2022
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98 - Resilient and Flexible minds: Interview with Lor Sabourin Sat, 10 Sep 2022
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97 - Project Obsession and Managing Conditions: SwizzyBouldering Part 2 Sat, 03 Sep 2022
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96 - Weak performance metrics, but elite performance? An Interview with SwizzyBouldering Part 1 Sat, 27 Aug 2022
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95 - The Olympics, 9a, V14, Family and a Day Job! Interview with: Tom O'Halloran Sat, 20 Aug 2022
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94 - World Class Finger Strength: Interview with Allison Vest Mon, 15 Aug 2022
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93 - Anna Hazelnutt Interview: E9 trad climbing, fear, falling and mental control Sat, 06 Aug 2022